The High Sierra Trail (8/1/1998-8/15/1998):
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Text and Photos ©Tom
Reynolds. All Rights Reserved.
Middle-Hamilton Lake to Kern Hot Springs
We have crossed Hamilton Creek and are drying our feet preparing
for the climb to Kaweah Gap.
The switchbacks go SFU. After two hours we
aren't any closer to Kaweah Gap than we started but we gained
lots of altitude. We take a break and level off to a gentle
ascent to Hamilton Gorge. At one time, in the 30's, there was
a bridge across the gorge. It was wiped out be an avalanche
so the Park Service built a tunnel across the gorge. As we climb
towards the tunnel a lone hiker approaches us. His backpack
is huge. He isn't using the hip belt and is only using one shoulder
strap yet he is walking at triple our speed. He is from Nepal
and arranges tours for a living. Mountains? What mountains??
He shoots past us. I am reminded that, no matter how far, how
fast or how long you walk, someone is always stronger, faster
and more dedicated.
We go on to Upper Hamilton Lake. It is right
on the edge of the precipice and ought to be named Precipice
Lake. There is a little snowfield just before the lake Soon
the snow is solid. . At Precipice Lake, almost 500' higher we
are exhausted but make good time across snowfields and snowbridges
across water. The snow lessens and we reach a bowl where the
trail is invisible. Working forward in the direction we must
we find and climb a little ridge --Kaweah Gap, 10,700. We have
crossed the Great Western Divide.
The guy from Nepal, is planning to cross the
Kaweah range [13000 foot peaks] via a cross country col called
Pants Pass [it is called Pants Pass because it its pure loose
scree and one slides down on his pants]. We take the High Sierra
that goes south, around this mountain range.
Big Arroyo is a side valley of the Kern. It
runs between the 13000' Kaweah Range to the east and the Great
Western Divide on the West. At 10,500' the 13,000' peaks look
small. Down valley is easy walking. Late in the day we ford
Big Arroyo Creek. Finally we arrive at our destination, the
junction of several trails where an old cabin
The Big Arroyo trail junction is where the
High Sierra Trail junctions with the trail down the Big Arroyo
and with the trail to Little Five Lakes and Black Rock Pass.
Several years ago I hiked over Franklin Pass from Mineral King,
then over a plateau down to the Big Arroyo Trail.
Sunday
The trail climbs the northeast wall of Big
Arroyo. Looking over and down I can see Rattlesnake Creek, Lost
Canyon and the Big and Little Five Lakes basins. It sure looks
steep. I musta been in good shape back then when I hike the
area. The trail crests at 10,700' at a little pond. Kaweah Peak
looks small even though it is a 13000+ peak. In fact the entire
Kaweah range is less than impressive. Sorta little hills. Course
I have been viewing them from above 10,000'.
The Chagoopa Plateau is a disappointment.
I have checked the snow pillow regularly to find about snow
melt and I expected a lush plateau with magnificent vistas.
Instead I have scattered trees, bare dirt with a few ground
plants and a red hill in the background {the red hill is Kaweah
Peak}.
At the trail junction we take
the spur loop to Moraine Lake. More dirt and scattered tree
cover but the lake appears soon. No one is at the camp. The
wind off the lake blows the bugs away. No mosquitoes!! Checking
the lake, I find the water quite warm. Everyone takes a welcome
swim. The view of Mineral King across the lake is lovely. It
is a relaxing camp. By nightfall no one has shown up. We have
this huge camping area and the entire lake to ourselves.
Monday
I considered a layover day at Moraine Lake
because it was so wonderful. Our next stop, Kern Hot Springs,
is sure to be crowded. We rejoin the High Sierra trail making
good time on the flat plateau and reach the lip of the Kern
trench. The direction is SFD. Fortunately, the switchbacks are
very good. At the bottom the going gets tougher. Working up
the Kern is real work. We are following an overgrown trail.
The trail gets boggier and boggier. We work over logs and fight
for solid ground. The trail is now a tributary of the Kern.
This is taking forever. Finally we cross Chaoogopa Creek and
spy dry trail . The scenery is beautiful; lovely ferns and Chagoopa
Falls in the background.
We reach the bridge across the Kern. It is
intact. Looking at the Kern there is no way we could have crossed
it. Another dry manzanita section awaits us followed by an unwanted
stream crossing. We reach the hot springs and look around for
campsites. The first we find are less than stellar but we soon
fine a fine spot. We also find a pit toilet! It is 1 PM. There
is no one but us here.
Kern Hot Springs is an improved version of
nature. Someone has constructed a concrete bathtub. Water from
the hot spring enters through a small pipe. It is too hot for
me. I use the wooden stopper to stem the flow. My son empties
buckets of cold river water into the tub until it is just right.
It takes time to figure out how the Hot Springs exactly works.
You need to picture this. The Hot Springs is set in a small
meadow next to the rushing Kern River. I am sitting next to
the Kern River taking a hot bath. No mosquitoes, the wind is
too high.
